Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 | The long-awaited end of Alberto Ginés and where his medal options pass


It’s a dream for Gines get where he has arrived, but the young man affirms that he wants to continue dreaming, therefore he is determined to give the best of himself in the final that will be played on the day August 5 starting at 10:30 am Spanish morning. The Extremaduran has some aces up his sleeve that could increase his options to get the medal he longs for. Already in an interview prior to his participation, he said that he felt very proud just for having been able to attend some Olympic Games, and since he did not think he had the option of getting into the final, he would be very happy fighting to obtain the Olympic diploma, and that that would serve as motivation to prepare for the Olympic Games. Paris 2024 and fight for the medal. But his participation was exceptional, so much so that the young climber has managed to allow his skills to lead him to the end of this curious newcomer sport.

The big favorites to win a medal are none other than the winners Adam Ondra and the local Tomoa Narasakiapart from the french brothers Mickael and Bassa Mawem, which to the surprise of the fans of this sport, Mickael Mawem ranked first with the sum of the three brilliant participations he made.

Olympic Games Tokyo 2020

Climbing | The French Bassa Mawen, the fastest in the qualifying speed test


Alberto Gines: The speed test is your secret weapon and it will measure your chances. He has worked a lot in this discipline and his best record in competition is just behind those of the three specialists. If he manages to get into the top four, he will have to be counted on until the end. In bouldering it will be a mystery, but in difficulty he has shown this year to be able to do better and better.

Adam Ondra: Your options for a medal are to achieve excellent results in the Olympic difficulty and bouldering events. He has the potential to be first in both, although he is not one of the most gifted participants in speed.

Tomoa Narasaki: Your advantage is that you have the ability to not fail in any of the three tests and finish in the top five in all of them. In addition, he is a very constant and reliable competitor, having been in the top two or three positions in the world bouldering rankings for several years.

Mickael mawem: The youngest of the Mawem is more technical and has a greater power, being his strong point the climbing in block.

The Spanish Alberto Gines claimed a place of honor at the party that marked the premiere of sport climbing on the Olympic program, after winning a place in the final of the Tokyo 2020 Games. Ginés was one of the eight best of the 20 climbers who participated. He won the ticket to the first Olympic final in the history of this sport, after concluding the preliminaries in sixth position with a total of 294 points.

Starting with the speed modality, the first of the three tests that climbers must face to determine who is the most complete in the specialty, the Spanish climber achieved a more than meritorious seventh position after achieving a better time of 6.32 seconds in his two attempts, and did it before the best climbers in the world (officially considered). At times, it even seems that both Adam Ondra and Tomoa Narasaki compete alone with each other and this is reflected by their world titles.

Ginés, however, did not have a brilliant participation in the next “block climbing” event. This test, no longer rewards agility, but the ability of a competitor to face four ‘problems’ raised to reach the top. Alberto finished fourteenth in this modality, but knowing that he would have a chance to enter the final thanks to the other two tests (speed and difficulty) and the overall scoring system. “I have done what I could, but it has allowed me to arrive with options to qualify for the final at the last test.”

Climbing | Historical! Alberto Ginés makes his debut with a 7th place in the speed test


1. Mickael Mawem (FRA) 33.00

2. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) 56.00

3. Colin Duffy (USA) 60.00

4. Jakob Schubert (AUT) 84.00

5. Adam Ondra (CZE) 216.00

6. Alberto Gines Lopez (ESP) 294.00

7. Bassa Mawem (FRA) 360.00 (TBD)

8. Nathaniel Coleman (USA) 550.00

Olympic Games Tokyo 2020

Climbing | The spectacular test of difficulty of Alberto Ginés


Olympic Games Tokyo 2020

Climbing | Historical! Alberto Ginés debuts with a 7th place in the speed test


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